Bunny Ears, Bubble Dresses and a New Era for Dior

Jonathan Anderson made his big Dior debut on 1 October at the Jardin des Tuileries, with one of the most anticipated shows of Paris Fashion Week. The venue buzzed before the first model walked, as the industry waited to see how the Loewe designer would tackle Dior’s heavy history.

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He wasted no time making an impact. Models appeared in pointed heels topped with floppy bow-like “bunny ears,” a quirky detail that immediately had the audience talking. Then came lace bubble dresses with ballooned hems, playful and exaggerated in a way that tested Dior’s couture heritage. Anderson didn’t leave the tailoring untouched either: cropped Bar jackets, inflated skirts and sculpted coats with loop fastenings pushed Dior’s signature shapes into unfamiliar territory.

Photo: @britishvogue-Instagram

Headwear added to the sense of disruption. Some looks were finished with angular hats, others with cornette-style headpieces, pulling the collection toward costume without tipping fully into it. Sequins and metallic thread were used carefully, offering flashes of light rather than overwhelming shine. The overall effect was precise in its construction yet mischievous in tone. It was a clear sign that Anderson wanted to shake off Dior’s reputation for restraint.

Photo: @britishvogue-Instagram

The response in the room was engaged but not instant adoration. The finale earned steady applause, though the feeling was that the audience was still processing what they had seen. That uncertainty carried into the early reviews, with some critics praising the energy of the debut while others wondered how it might sit with Dior’s more traditional clientele.

Photo: @britishvogue-Instagram

For UK fashion watchers, there’s added interest. Anderson has already shown at Loewe that he can keep stores busy while delivering designs that push conversations forward. Bringing that approach to Dior raises the stakes, as he now has to balance one of fashion’s most recognisable names with his taste for experimentation.

What mattered most in Paris was the intent. Anderson treated Dior’s past as material to cut up and rework rather than something to repeat. His debut did not settle the question of what Dior will look like under his leadership, but it made sure the house is back in active debate.