Dario Vitale’s First Versace Collection Signals a New Direction

Dario Vitale opened his tenure at Versace in Milan with a debut collection that marked an immediate shift in direction.

Vitale eschewed the conventional runway show and staged the collection at Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. The gallery was set up like a private apartment, complete with unmade beds, ashtrays and scattered personal items, giving the audience the sense they were intruding.

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The clothes reflected the lived-in environment. Vitale drew on Gianni Versace’s late-1980s archive without producing direct replicas. There were unbelted, high-waisted jeans, backless dresses that revealed lingerie, side-slit vests, oversized blazers in bold proportions, and form-fitting one-piece designs for both men and women.

It stood in stark contrast to the polished glamour of Donatella Versace’s era, favouring a rougher, more immediate energy.

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Critical reaction was mixed. Some welcomed the revival of Gianni-era sensuality, while others found the collection uneven and questioned how its raw edges would translate to retail. Yet Vitale made it clear that the house is entering a new chapter.

His appointment in April ended Donatella Versace’s 27-year run as creative director. She remains as Chief Brand Ambassador, leaving Vitale as the first outsider to take the helm creatively.

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Vitale’s approach shifts attention away from Hollywood-style glamour towards rethinking the foundations of the brand. Nevertheless, his designs have already hit the red carpet: Julia Roberts wore a custom piece from the collection at the Venice Film Festival.

The challenge now is consistency. A debut can make an impact through novelty, but the seasons ahead will show whether Vitale’s vision will endure. For now, his opening statement has reset expectations at Versace.